Granada and La Alhambra
Leaving Nerja, we had a quick 1-hour drive to our next destination: Granada. If you aren't familiar with this city, then I should start by giving you a few pieces of background. Or, if you know your Spanish history, then you'll appreciate the conquering direction our itinerary has coincidentally followed ...
Nestled at the base of the Sierra Nevadas, the city boasts extraordinary architecture from over 250 years as the capital of a Moorish kingdom. It is home to the Alhambra - the last strong-hold of the Moorish kingdom in Spain, and one of greatest wonders of Europe. There is no place in Europe quite like it.
When we arrived through an old city gate for our 2-night stay, our host gave a funny lesson in tapas here, describing why they are free. "In Granada they marry the drink with the food," he said. We had to try this marriage for ourself - and headed straight for lunch at Bar Los Diamantes in Plaza Nueva. It's famous for its seafood.
After lunch we explored the streets near the main square - the Moorish bazaar. Today's market is confined to a small number of shops selling trinkets, leather goods, ceramics, spices, and silks. It sounds fascinating on paper but in truth it is barely more than typical tourist junk - which I always love to explore to find my unique souvenirs that keep my trip memories alive back home.
Before I knew it, the bazaar shops had ended yet we were still wandering. Though it wasn't my intention at that moment, I knew where we were headed: Mirador de San Nicolás. It's the viewpoint overlooking La Alhambra. We come back again tonight so I'll withhold its description until then.
When you are hot and tired, every step is a chore, and it is hard to find pleasure. It was only 85 but you'd think we were in the Sahara, with the sun zapping every ounce of energy. "Are you lost?" Asked Jeremy. The streets of the Albaycin feel like a maze and each turn looks the same as the last. No, it was hard to be lost here, at least not as long as we were going down. And I had a map, of course.
Made energizer-bunny tough, and capable of tolerating high temperatures, I deployed the troops home so I could continue exploring our new destination. I wandered around sightseeing and taking care of each town's shopping basics.
For dinner I managed to drag the family back up to Mirador de San Nicolás for a picnic. We snatched a piece of prime real estate - a seat on the low wall overlooking the Alhambra. We settled in to savor the view and lively square with its the street performers and hawkers (who quickly dissipate when the Policia show up).
In the morning we visited the Alhambra. Our tour guide for our 3-hour visit of the Alhambra is yet another recommendation from Rick Steves: Margarita Ortiz de Landazuri
http://alhambratours.com/reservas.html
She is spot on and exactly what you'd hope for when you find a name in his book. All of her communications were immediate, accurate, and reliable. She gave us a wonderful, private tour. She is precisely the reason I heed Rick's advice. From Granada, Margarita imparted us with a gift we cannot forget.
Two things about Margarita particularly won me over: 1) She said walking and reading is what gives you knowledge. 2) She too gets "stressed" by large groups and wanted to run to not get behind them.
We started with the Nasrid Palaces right when it opened at 8:30. You don't want to come this far and then miss this section of the Alhambra so make sure you plan your visit in advance. The tickets go on sale 4 months in advance and of the 8000 tickets per day they sell to the complex, the number of tickets to the Nasrid Palaces are limited and therefore sell out very quickly.
Built mostly in the 14th century, the Nasrid Palaces offer your best possible look at the refined, elegant Moorish civilization of Al-Andalus. It is decorated from top to bottom with carved wood ceilings, stucco "stalactites," ceramic tiles, molded-plaster walls, and filigree windows.
Grand Hall of the Ambassadors – the palace's largest room functioned as the sultan's throne room. The room is a perfect cube from top to bottom. The star-studded, domed wooden ceiling is made from 8,017 inlaid pieces like a giant jigsaw puzzle.
Sleeking surreptitiously throughout the grounds of the Alhambra are 45 feral cats, each personally documented and named. "Misa misa" (kitty kitty), Margarita called to them, offering treats she brought just for them.
If you can't snag tickets to the Nasrid Palaces, the Generalife's Gardens and Summer Palace won't disappoint. Last on our tour, they were very crowded by the time we reached them.
Although not necessarily the most appreciative, Jeremy is vocal about it. "At first I was disappointed we were coming to another place like this but I really like it. I thought that was the coolest thing we did on the trip" (besides food which is #1 everywhere we go).
Bring on vacation is like dreaming. You look around and see things that you know are real - you enjoy it - yet you know it won't last, and soon enough you'll be back in the daily grind. And just like a dream, our trip will end. In a few days' time we will be jolted back to reality. After a last long drive, one more blog post, and two nights in Peníscola, along Spain's Costa del Azahar, we fly out of Barcelona.
Nestled at the base of the Sierra Nevadas, the city boasts extraordinary architecture from over 250 years as the capital of a Moorish kingdom. It is home to the Alhambra - the last strong-hold of the Moorish kingdom in Spain, and one of greatest wonders of Europe. There is no place in Europe quite like it.
La Alhambra
We are staying in a typical house, called a carmen, surrounded by a high boundary wall and including a small garden courtyard. (It is the first door on the left.)
When we arrived through an old city gate for our 2-night stay, our host gave a funny lesson in tapas here, describing why they are free. "In Granada they marry the drink with the food," he said. We had to try this marriage for ourself - and headed straight for lunch at Bar Los Diamantes in Plaza Nueva. It's famous for its seafood.
After lunch we explored the streets near the main square - the Moorish bazaar. Today's market is confined to a small number of shops selling trinkets, leather goods, ceramics, spices, and silks. It sounds fascinating on paper but in truth it is barely more than typical tourist junk - which I always love to explore to find my unique souvenirs that keep my trip memories alive back home.
Granada's souk-like market
Before I knew it, the bazaar shops had ended yet we were still wandering. Though it wasn't my intention at that moment, I knew where we were headed: Mirador de San Nicolás. It's the viewpoint overlooking La Alhambra. We come back again tonight so I'll withhold its description until then.
When you are hot and tired, every step is a chore, and it is hard to find pleasure. It was only 85 but you'd think we were in the Sahara, with the sun zapping every ounce of energy. "Are you lost?" Asked Jeremy. The streets of the Albaycin feel like a maze and each turn looks the same as the last. No, it was hard to be lost here, at least not as long as we were going down. And I had a map, of course.
To get to Mirador de San Nicolás (top center in photo), you walk for 30 minutes straight up through the streets of the Albaycin
Made energizer-bunny tough, and capable of tolerating high temperatures, I deployed the troops home so I could continue exploring our new destination. I wandered around sightseeing and taking care of each town's shopping basics.
For dinner I managed to drag the family back up to Mirador de San Nicolás for a picnic. We snatched a piece of prime real estate - a seat on the low wall overlooking the Alhambra. We settled in to savor the view and lively square with its the street performers and hawkers (who quickly dissipate when the Policia show up).
The Alhambra is breath-taking; nothing prepares you for the first time you see it.
In the morning we visited the Alhambra. Our tour guide for our 3-hour visit of the Alhambra is yet another recommendation from Rick Steves: Margarita Ortiz de Landazuri
http://alhambratours.com/reservas.html
She is spot on and exactly what you'd hope for when you find a name in his book. All of her communications were immediate, accurate, and reliable. She gave us a wonderful, private tour. She is precisely the reason I heed Rick's advice. From Granada, Margarita imparted us with a gift we cannot forget.
Two things about Margarita particularly won me over: 1) She said walking and reading is what gives you knowledge. 2) She too gets "stressed" by large groups and wanted to run to not get behind them.
We started with the Nasrid Palaces right when it opened at 8:30. You don't want to come this far and then miss this section of the Alhambra so make sure you plan your visit in advance. The tickets go on sale 4 months in advance and of the 8000 tickets per day they sell to the complex, the number of tickets to the Nasrid Palaces are limited and therefore sell out very quickly.
Built mostly in the 14th century, the Nasrid Palaces offer your best possible look at the refined, elegant Moorish civilization of Al-Andalus. It is decorated from top to bottom with carved wood ceilings, stucco "stalactites," ceramic tiles, molded-plaster walls, and filigree windows.
The magnific Nasrid Palaces are the crowning glory of the Alhambra. To protect the lavishly decorated walls, you have to wear your packs on your front.
Perhaps my favorite thing is the colorful Islamic geometric patterns of the tile inlay covering the walls - and their complicated mathematical patterns
They say the Alhambra is an elaborate "book palace" for its writings; the intricate interweaving repetition and unending lines are a religious message.
Grand Hall of the Ambassadors – the palace's largest room functioned as the sultan's throne room. The room is a perfect cube from top to bottom. The star-studded, domed wooden ceiling is made from 8,017 inlaid pieces like a giant jigsaw puzzle.
Grand Hall of the Ambassadors – the entire room is exquisite
The biggest cupola that has survived is in the Hall of Two Sisters
The intricacy of the stalactite arches is uniquely beautiful
The splendid Court of the Myrtles
No wonder the cats in Spain had been ignoring me; I've been calling them gato!
If you can't snag tickets to the Nasrid Palaces, the Generalife's Gardens and Summer Palace won't disappoint. Last on our tour, they were very crowded by the time we reached them.
The Generalife
Considered outside the "city" of the Alhambra, the Generalife offers a great view of the Alhambra
Although not necessarily the most appreciative, Jeremy is vocal about it. "At first I was disappointed we were coming to another place like this but I really like it. I thought that was the coolest thing we did on the trip" (besides food which is #1 everywhere we go).
No matter where we walk, we always end up in Plaza Nueva
Bring on vacation is like dreaming. You look around and see things that you know are real - you enjoy it - yet you know it won't last, and soon enough you'll be back in the daily grind. And just like a dream, our trip will end. In a few days' time we will be jolted back to reality. After a last long drive, one more blog post, and two nights in Peníscola, along Spain's Costa del Azahar, we fly out of Barcelona.
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