Andalusia’s Pueblos Blancos
The plan for today was to day-trip through Andalucia's White Hill towns - quaint villages perched in the sierras with wonderfully untouched Spanish culture. However, I made a late change to the itinerary and decided it would be best to stay overnight instead. It worked out well for us, and shortened the early morning drive we were expecting for tomorrow.
We started on the outskirts of Sevilla in Italica, one of the earliest Roman settlements in Spain. Founded in 206 BC, it was the birthplace of Emperors Trajan and Hadrian, but what equally attracted us was its reemergence into history as the filming location of the Dragonpit from Game of Thrones.
Next to the amphitheater, about five large houses of prosperous families have been excavated, some with well-preserved, colorful mosaics, including floors with exquisite design of birds, Neptune, and the planets.
We all agreed the stop was worthwhile; 90 minutes visit was enough for us because by 11am it was already ~90 °F and there's very little shade.
Of Spain's White Hill towns, Arcos de la Frontera is probably the most famous and dramatic, and is also considered the 'gateway' to the other Pueblos Blancos. It seemed like a good starting point.
Your reward for climbing up to the sandstone castle is the dramatic view from the Plaza del Cabildon. The plaza stops abruptly as a sheer cliff face plunges down to the river below.
"It's 85 °F right now can you believe it?" asked Jeremy, convinced it had to be closer to 170 °F. Walking into the steep village with minimal shade, I'm positive the town is a lot more attractive in cooler weather.
This is one town you don't want to drive into ... the old center is a labyrinth of incredibly narrow lanes. All of the buildings have numerous scratches on them from car mirrors scraping by. It elicited comments like: "Why are there so many cars." "And they go fast." And horrified Jeremy's scream, " Watch your foot, oh my gosh mom!"
Apparently 92 °F is the melting point because family members started dropping like flies by the time we arrived at Ronda, our final destination for the day. I guess that is fine since there's not much to do other than gaze at the incredible view and have a refreshing drink in a plaza.
Perched dramatically above a 500-foot ravine in the province of Málaga, Ronda is, no doubt, one of the most spectacular sights in Andalusia. The largest of Spain's pueblos blancos abounds in history, restaurants, and magnificent views, with the dramatic El Tajo gorge (300 ft deep and 200 ft wide) cutting the city in two.
Bar El Lechuguita was our chosen spot for dinner when it finally opened at 8:30pm. Its $1 tapas makes it both popular with locals and TripAdvisor - thus creating the line at the door. After ordering drinks and 16 delicious tapas, our bill was only €22.30!
We started on the outskirts of Sevilla in Italica, one of the earliest Roman settlements in Spain. Founded in 206 BC, it was the birthplace of Emperors Trajan and Hadrian, but what equally attracted us was its reemergence into history as the filming location of the Dragonpit from Game of Thrones.
The impressive 25,000-seater amphitheater was one of the largest in the Roman Empire. Most recently it housed dragons, the powerful leaders of Westeros, and a wight.
Next to the amphitheater, about five large houses of prosperous families have been excavated, some with well-preserved, colorful mosaics, including floors with exquisite design of birds, Neptune, and the planets.
For most, Italica's remarkable mosaics constitute the main reason for a visit. The House of the Planetarium's pristine mosaic portrays Venus surrounded by the gods associasted to the 7 celestial bodies.
We all agreed the stop was worthwhile; 90 minutes visit was enough for us because by 11am it was already ~90 °F and there's very little shade.
Of Spain's White Hill towns, Arcos de la Frontera is probably the most famous and dramatic, and is also considered the 'gateway' to the other Pueblos Blancos. It seemed like a good starting point.
Arcos de la Frontera balances atop a rocky limestone ridge
Your reward for climbing up to the sandstone castle is the dramatic view from the Plaza del Cabildon. The plaza stops abruptly as a sheer cliff face plunges down to the river below.
"The people of Arcos boast that only they see the backs of the birds as they fly." --Rick Steves
Mirador de Abades
There's no shade as you walk along the whitewashed houses of Arcos de la Frontera
This is one town you don't want to drive into ... the old center is a labyrinth of incredibly narrow lanes. All of the buildings have numerous scratches on them from car mirrors scraping by. It elicited comments like: "Why are there so many cars." "And they go fast." And horrified Jeremy's scream, " Watch your foot, oh my gosh mom!"
Melding into doorways to let cars pass
Apparently 92 °F is the melting point because family members started dropping like flies by the time we arrived at Ronda, our final destination for the day. I guess that is fine since there's not much to do other than gaze at the incredible view and have a refreshing drink in a plaza.
Though not its feature viewpoint, the backside of Ronda is still a worthy vista
Perched dramatically above a 500-foot ravine in the province of Málaga, Ronda is, no doubt, one of the most spectacular sights in Andalusia. The largest of Spain's pueblos blancos abounds in history, restaurants, and magnificent views, with the dramatic El Tajo gorge (300 ft deep and 200 ft wide) cutting the city in two.
Ronda's Puente Nuevo bridge - an engineering wonder soaring nearly 400 feet above the Guadalevin River below
Popular Bar El Luchuguita filled up as soon as the doors opened
Alas, after some rest, food, and drink, I get a smile from my baby girl
At 10pm, Chris and I take another hike into the gorge
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